Many moons ago a friend presented me with a photo of a devilish wave – curling, crashing and spitting onto an unyielding rock shelf set below an oily ocean surface. Something enchanting was captured in that picture, which stuck in my naïve mind. “If you show anyone, I’d have to kill you”, said the bearded freckled faced man with a smirk and sparkle in his blue eyes.
The flight to LA took me about 48hrs, so I was pretty broken by the time I arrived at the airport for our global premier in Corona Del Mar in Orange county, California. This was the one that Peter and I where most worried about! We are both pretty unknown South Africans – would anybody actually come?
Following on from my morning routine I thought it would be good to break my ideal day up into the different types of training I do. After my morning routine I almost always go to Yoga. The class I like to go to is from 8:30 – 9:30am, it’s an awesome way to start the day.
Earlier this year i went to Namibia with an epic crew including myself, Josh Redman, Edward Millatt, Andre and Marc Botha as well as Trish Lynn. It was just one of those trips where everything seemed to work out including the waves. I asked my good friend Edward to write a couple of words on the place as he used to live there and has been more than most.
San Francisco feels like my second home!
I have so many good friends there and love coming back each year. When you go to the local coffee shop and the guys say ‘Hey Frank, welcome back!’ you feel very welcome and it’s nice to have that homely feel when you’re on the road all the time.
My travel partner and all round good guy Josh Redman joined me for the last 2 weeks of my trip to Ireland. We had been having a pretty epic run up until that point: great weather, awesome waves and offshore winds…
I don’t know what happened to that pattern, but in those last 2 weeks the weather and waves went on vacation completely, because wow, did conditions change. It was pouring with rain, hailing, snow on the mountains and howling onshore winds pretty much every day for 13 days. I kept saying to Josh, “I swear there are waves here…”. So for 13 days we pretty much huddled in our house, made fires and tried to surf and stay positive (which is a pretty hard task when its hailing and 2 degrees Celsius), but Josh and I have been through some times together and we made it through.
We started off getting some really fun waves for the first two weeks I was there, even though I was pretty much focused on finishing up some scenes for my film ‘ Lets be Frank’…
It was pretty amazing actually – the weather was great, sun was out, it felt just like a Cape Town winter with no wind and amazing scenery. Visually Ireland is such an amazingly beautiful country. To me it doesn’t seem real in a way – it seems more like a fairy tail or something out of ‘Lord of the Rings’. Maybe it’s the ancient history of the place with some of their temples pre-dating the pyramids in Egypt. I don’t know. Its hard to explain, but you can feel the history in the air and the land. The fields are so green, and then you have the ancient stone walls, which are dark, separating all the fields. So you have this contrast in colour and when the sun comes out the whole place just lights up. Add to that the endless rainbows you see and you can’t help but fall in love with the country.