San Francisco feels like a second home for me now. I know my way around the city and if you come ill even be able to give you a small tour of the sites.
This certainly hasn’t been the best start to the northern hemisphere winter by any stretch. Yes, there have been waves at Jaws and the one day at Cortez Bank, but here at Mavericks it has been pretty dismal. I think all together I have surfed there 4 times this year with one day before the new year having some solid ones. Ocean Beach, however, has been really fun and we have been able to surf almost every day.
Josh arrived almost a month ago. Though he didn’t know, we picked him up from the airport and headed straight for Todos Santos. We spent the night at Greg Long’s house in San Clemente and the next morning met up with Dooma. Our whole crew; myself, Dooma, Josh, Wyatt Fields, Colin Dwyer, and Travis Payne, headed south to Ensenada and the Island of Todos Santos. All the boys where psyched for some big waves. We booked into a hotel and organized our boat for the morning. After the longest boat ride ever for such a short distance we rounded the island, and to cut a long story short, the waves weren’t very big.
It’s the nature of our sport though, and any sport for that matter. You win some, you loose some. We pretty much did a U-turn and headed for home, and endured an extremely long and uncomfortable ride back to SF.
After Mexico, things kind of died down, and Josh and I got into our routine of Yoga, surfing and making epic food.
The two of us have travelled a lot together, and you would be amazed at the meals we come up with – its insane! Josh studied to be a chef for a year and I have always been interested in cooking. This year, for some reason, we kept making roast ‘beer can’ chicken with sweet potatoes, garlic, and onion. After who knows how many attempts, I think we have the roast ‘beer can’ chicken down to an art form.
Other than eating and surfing in San Francisco we did have one fun session out at Mavs this year. The guys from Hurley asked me to take one of their younger team riders out there, and the next day we where joined by young Cameron Faris who drove up from LA for his first session out at Mavericks. We left our place at about 6am and headed down to Half-Moon Bay. It must have been near freezing that morning, it was so cold. Sometimes you wonder what the hell you’re doing up at 6am in the freezing cold, about to go surf giant waves, But after lagging for a while we got ourselves amped and together with Travis Payne and Colin Dwyer we paddled out.
We saw a couple good sets as we paddled out and conditions looked great except for the offshore winds, which where pretty strong. Almost as soon as we got out there Josh and I almost got caught by a big set (I’m going to attach a video where you can see us scratching, its pretty funny). That set the tone for the rest of the session for me, as I was always worrying about another big clean-up set, when in fact it was pretty inconsistent. Never the less, it was a fun session with all the usual suspects out there. Derek Dunfee got a bomb that session that was pretty sick.
That session was on the 30th of December and we hoped there would be more sessions, but it wasn’t to be. But we did have some pretty epic days at the SF’s Ocean Beach though. There are some clips in the Powerlines video I have attached of our waves at the beach.
Since things have slowed down here its time for me to hit the road again, so I’m off to Hawaii next week for 2months. There are a bunch of South Africans heading to the north shore this season so it should be an epic time.