My travel partner and all round good guy Josh Redman joined me for the last 2 weeks of my trip to Ireland. We had been having a pretty epic run up until that point: great weather, awesome waves and offshore winds…
I don’t know what happened to that pattern, but in those last 2 weeks the weather and waves went on vacation completely, because wow, did conditions change. It was pouring with rain, hailing, snow on the mountains and howling onshore winds pretty much every day for 13 days. I kept saying to Josh, “I swear there are waves here…”. So for 13 days we pretty much huddled in our house, made fires and tried to surf and stay positive (which is a pretty hard task when its hailing and 2 degrees Celsius), but Josh and I have been through some times together and we made it through.
Somehow, on literally the last day of our trip (our flights out where the next day early) it came together for us. With pretty much perfect conditions the whole day. We woke up early and surfed a pretty amazing slab with just myself, Josh, Matt Bromley and Noah Lane out. Big left barrels, no wind and just the 4 of us out – it was pretty insane.
When the tide got to low we moved over to Mullaghmore and the waves where firing there too with perfect glassy conditions and just the local boys out. As I was walking down the rocks to go surf I slipped badly on the rocks and somehow tweaked my knee. I could barley stand. I paddled out but was definitely not OK and in a lot of pain. Fortunately Josh got a bomb, so I was stoked because that session and day kinda made his trip, which I might have convinced him to come on…
It was not the best way to end my trip to Ireland, but at least I did not break anything this time and I got to have an epic day of amazing waves had by all none the less, so no complaints from this end.
A big thanks to the local crew Barry Mothershead, Dylan Stott, Connor Maguire and everyone else that we shared beers or waves with in Ireland.
The next day I got on a flight to Hawaii to finish up some scenes for my film, ‘Lets Be Frank’. It’s not the quickest journey: Dublin -> Heathrow (12hr layover in Heathrow) ->Los Angeles -> Honolulu. I didn’t really mind though, as I was pretty excited to be warm after the freezing conditions of Ireland.
It was pretty hard being in Hawaii and not being able to surf because of my knee. The year before I was there with a broken back and could not really surf either. Injuries are apart of the game, I guess, so you can’t worry about it too much – just gotta put your head down and get better.
Luckily for me most of my time was spent filming and finishing up my film, so at least I was busy and not moping around with a bum knee! I can’t say too much about the film yet, but what I can say is that it’s going to be very different from your ‘normal’ surf film and that I had an awesome time with the whole team in Hawaii for 10 days.
I did, by chance, happen to be there for the Surfer Poll Awards which was really fun. I had never been before and it was epic to catch up with old friends and see everyone dressed up for an evening. John John pretty much stole the show, winning like 5 awards including best movie, which I am super grateful to have been a part of. Let’s just say we had a pretty festive night:)
With the Pipe Masters underway along with all the craziness that goes with it, I decided to go to California for a couple of weeks before returning to Hawaii for a month or two. Pretty much as I arrived in Huntington Beach myself and my good friend Cameron Faris did a strike mission to Todos Santos, but the waves weren’t great. With things looking better up North we drove to San Fransisco and had a pretty fun session out at Mavericks followed by some waves at Ocean Beach where I am currently posted up for the next couple of weeks. Really hoping for some more swells out at Mavericks soon, before I head back to Hawaii.
It’s the holiday season so I wish each and every one of you who reads this a Merry Merry Christmas and Festive Season with your friends and family. Remember to think of those less fortunate than you, those we don’t have food to eat or water to drink. Im not sure how we are gonna do it yet, but we need to change this world we live in for the better 🙂