Mexico with Josua

By October 18, 2013Uncategorized

Getting to Mexico was quite a stretch to say the least. There are not many places further from SA to travel than here and by the time Frank and I arrived after three days of planes and airports you can imagine what we looked like.

 The whole trip we had been checking the forecast and the first two weeks of our trip showed two swells back to back! So three days of psyching out on a plane was pretty painful.
I had some of the worst flying conditions of my life. A 16hr flight with Franks whistling nose (due to a couple breaks) and this old Indian lady stealing my arm rest, was just the beginning.

I walk onto the next flight from San Francisco to Mexico City and there at the window seat next to me is a Mexican lady with a baby on her lap. I couldn’t believe my eyes. Frank walked in shortly after I sat down and couldn’t contain the laughter when he saw the situation in front of him. Neither could I, it was really funny for a second, but then it was over. The next 6 hours I got kicked, elbowed and cried at. I’ll never forgive that lady.

Frank had told me so many stories of how sick Puerto is, this together with all the photos and footage I’d seen growing up gave my imagination a picture of what to expect. As you do….. In this case my expectations were blown away. From the intense midday heat that we were hit with when exiting the plane to the beauty of the beaches here, the bars that line the beach selling cheap Mexican beers (which are amazing), to the intense power of the actual wave itself.

The first morning we woke up early and it was about 3-4ft. I took my small board out, got smashed and creased it. (Lesson learnt. It’s always heavier than it looks from the beach)
There’s a lot of water moving around out there too, with all these rips forming after sets which are constantly shifting up and down the beach. So having a bit of board underneath you really helps to get around the line up. It is one of those waves.

After experiencing how powerful the wave was on only a 3ft day I couldn’t wait to see it at 6-8ft which is what we got two days later. The same thing happened on both swells, peaking at 6-8 ft with a couple 4 ft days on either side. Over the first two weeks we put in a lot of time in the water, caught about 200 beatings and got plenty shacks.

It’s not that easy to get waves out there though, with the crowds being worse now than most guys have ever seen it, the locals were understandably getting a bit uneasy. Like at most spots though, if you show your respect, be patient and give locals first dibs, you’ll get your waves.

After 3 weeks of baggies, Coronas, fish tacos, Mojitos, barrels, tequila, coconuts and palm trees, we’re boarding a plane out of here for the next leg of our trip. Full suits and hoods in Northern California for the Mavericks opening function. Frank is alternate again this year so will be sick to go check him strutting around!

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